Sunday, May 29, 2005

Bergama (Pergamum)-Akhisar (Thyatira)
With a length of 401 km / 250 miles, the Gediz is 2nd longest river in the Aegean region. It originates from western central Anatolia and flows into the Gulf of Izmir near Foca. In the 19C there was a danger of the port of Izmir being blocked by its alluviums which is why another channel was dug in the northern part.


Pergamum was an ancient city founded by colonists on the Aegean coast of Anatolia at the site of the present-day city of Bergama. It was on a tributary of the Bakircay (Caicus River), enclosed by high mountains. Fertile, self-contained and easily defended, it provided the perfect setting for the maintenance of a city state.

The Terrace Houses,
in Ephesus

A group of private residences inhabited from the 1st to
6th centuries AD, the Terrace Houses were brought to
light in excavations carried out since the 1980s. Along
with those in Pompeii, they constitute some of the most
vivid examples of Roman domestic architecture to
survive to the present. Routine tourism is not allowed,
but the houses can be visited by permission of the director
of Ephesus Museum. Household items and artwork found
at the Terrace Houses are on display in Hall I of same museum.

Separate ticket for Terrace Houses. Permission at Selcuk
Museum. Tel: +90 (0232) 892 6010

In Ephesus archaeological zone. Selcuk 1km.
Safran, large restaurant with good meat grills. In Camlik
Village, 8 km S of Selcuk (dir. Aydin). Tel +90 (0232) 894 8404

Naz Han. Tel +90 (0232) 892 8731. Nilya. Tel:
+90 (0232) 892 9081
Civilised, charming little hotels managed by two sisters from the
big city. Both in the old part of Selcuk near St Johns.
Cakiraga House,
in Birgi

A superb specimen of the traditional Ottoman seigneurial
house, the Cakiraga mansion was built in 1761 for a local
magnate. It remains unmatched for sheer charm, humour
and palpable sense of savoir-vivre. A series of delightfully
naive wallpaintings depict Istanbul and Izmir as they
appeared arround the year 1820.

The town itself retains its traditional fabric intact, centred
around the figure of Birgivi Mehmed Efendi, a 16th
century scholar who is revered as a local saint.

Closed Monday am.
Birgi town centre. Odemis 8km
Kuleli Restaurant. Presant garden, roast turkey;
keskek (a local specialty) on Sundays only.

Saturday, May 28, 2005

on Cunda Island near Ayvalik

The town of Cunda is as close as it gets to "Greek island"
atmosphere in Turkey. The area arround the town is
spoiled by new housing colonies, but the back (north)
part of the island remains untouched.
Two timeless little hamlets here bear the common name
Patrica. A path leads from the second of the two to a
deserted cove where a derelict Greek monastery
-- formerly St Demetrios of the Moonlight-- stands
by clear sea. It is an evocative site at full moon.

5 km from Cunda-town to Patrica; 2 km walk to
A dozen seafood restaurants alond the Cunda
waterfront oofer excellent meze & fish.
Near Kucukkuyu

This attactive old village on the forested slopes of
kazdagi --Mt Ida of Antiquity-- forms a pleasant
contrast to the overcrowded coast of the Gulf of
Edremit. A donkey path paved with stones leads
up to the village through olive gloves. Near the village
entrance, the Altar of Zeus provides a fine panorama.

The nighbouring villages of Yesilyurt and Kucuk Cetmi
are equally picturesque.

4 km from Kucukkuyu, turnoff marked "Zeus Altari"

Hurmali Kahve
is the nicest of three cafe-creperies at village
Hunnap Han. Quiet, well restored historic house.
Tel: +90 (0286) 752 6581.
, near Alabayır/Çine

A series of archaic funerary monument are set on a wild
mountainside surrounded by untamed and beatiful lansscape.
The most impressive one is built of rough-hewn slabs of stone
3 by 4 metres. Traces of monumental sculpture
(eg. a metre-wide lion's paw) lie scattered about.
The word GERGAS is carved in Greek letters on the
monument. Its significance remain obscure

Marked turnoff to Alabayir 7 km s of Cine; 14km good unpaved road to
Alabayir; turn right just before village and drive 2 km to quartz mine;
than walk 30min. Local guide recommended. Alternative hiking path
(1 hr 45 min) from Roman Bridge 21 km S of Cine, dir. Mugla

Cinar Restaurant/Petrol Ofisi Station in Eskicine, on Highway 8 km
of S of Cine. Tasty food, shady terrace. Tel +90 (0256) 724 2541